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Dealing with Sibling Rivalry

Dealing with Sibling Rivalry

 

Dog owners are keenly aware of the many benefits of sharing their life with a dog. But did you know that numerous scientific studies have found that dog ownership has a significant positive impact on our health, including lowering a person’s risk of heart disease?

 

Having one dog in the family is wonderful and provides opportunities for walks, cuddles, fun, and games. However, our busy lives can translate into having to leave our dogs for long hours alone at home, which is often less than ideal. Adding a companion for your companion can give them additional outlets when you aren’t available – or even when you are!

However, it is important to pick the right dog in order to ensure a smooth transition and a lifetime of love between your pets. Please give serious consideration to the reality that some dogs do prefer to be singletons and don’t want to share their human’s love or have other dogs in their space. Don’t try to force them into it, as it can have negative emotional and physical ramifications!

Households with multiple dogs can experience jealousy, resource guarding, and play that just becomes a little too excited, going from play fighting to a real fight. It is critical to look at the dynamics of sex and age on how behaviours work out, as not all combinations are equally successful.

Issues Related to Gender

A very important element to consider is the gender of the dogs involved, since the differences in sexes are real! While it is possible for any gender combination to work, a combination of a boy and girl or two boys are the preferred pairings. Scientific studies have shown that two girls are significantly more likely to fight at a dangerous and damaging level and that a boy and a girl are the least likely to experience problems.

Statistically, not only do we do see a heightened level of difficulty when integrating a female dog into a home with a single resident female dog, but the fights are more likely to result in real injury and even death. There are a number of reasons why this may be the case, such as females being more likely to resource guard both their owner and their things, including food, bones, beds, and toys from another female. Females are innately looking to protect resources for their unborn litters, which isn’t a consideration for males, who don’t participate at any level in parenthood.

This guarding often stays at a low threshold, but it can erupt suddenly in a silent but dangerous way. While most male aggression is ritualistic, with a high level of noise and posturing, fights between females can escalate very quickly, and they are far more likely to result in injury. Any inter-female aggression should be taken very seriously and interrupted immediately.

The Age-Old Question?

Age is also a major factor, as puppies are truly obnoxious in their play style and literally get in the face of other dogs. Most adult dogs are intolerant of this behaviour and may give a harsh correction to the puppy. A puppy under 10 months of age should be closely watched when interacting with dogs under 6 years of age and not allowed to play with a dog over 6 years if there is any indication that the older dog is not interested.

The early interactions between puppies and adult dogs can also have long-term repercussions. An adult dog that is consistently growling or physically correcting a puppy may be on the receiving end when the pup grows up and realizes that they are the stronger one now. The older dog will have shown them that physical corrections are okay.

Dogs are very observational learners, especially when young, so we need to ensure that they are getting a calm message from the older dog. This means that the pup should be tired out with toy and human interactions before being allowed to interact with the older dog. Be sure to interrupt overt grabbing by the puppy at the adult’s body and have them take frequent breaks to settle down. Note that the dogs’ body clocks may be different as well, so the older one may want to play sometimes – but not all the time! You can use gates at various times of day, when one dog is feeling tired and the other just keeps begging to play.

 

Personality Conflicts

Dogs have personalities, too, and these differences can create strife in any pair. When that happens, it can be hard to tell when we need to step in and manage the situation and when we should let them work it out. The key is to minimize the triggers that cause fighting and to recognize how triggers can pile up.

Be aware of the interactions that are most likely to be dangerous, and be especially vigilant at those times. The three most likely triggers of over-arousal are:

  1. Protecting a bed or lap space
  2. High-value bones, toys, treats, or meals
  3. Arousing play

That last one can seem like an oxymoron – how can play be a problem? When dogs (or kids, for that matter) are playing, the activity can trigger the happy hormones called endorphins, but it can also trigger the stress hormones cortisol and adrenalin as well as testosterone. When play continues uninterrupted, these hormones can create a more intense interaction, and the play can slip into actual aggression. Be sure to help your dogs take frequent breaks in play, to keep things from escalating.

Resource Guarding

Things like feeding dogs their meals or bones fully separated can go a long way to reduce anxiety over resources. Ideally, they should be completely out of each other’s sight and any leftovers should be picked up immediately.

Ultimately, we want to create a calm environment while our dogs are eating anything in order to reduce stress on the one that is most likely to be challenged. I recommend having dogs in separate rooms or crates if there has been any posturing at all. They can likely be together while the meal is being prepared, practising calmness at that time, but only if it doesn’t provoke any growling or snapping.

With lap or bed guarding, you can gently rest your hand on the collar of the dog already in place and lightly hold them there as the other dog approaches. Calming strokes on the back reduces their stress level, and the light collar hold prevents them from lunging at the other dog. Continue to pet them and give calm praise as the other dog gets up, and provide enough space so that they each have their own spot to lie down on. As long as it’s safe to do so and you don’t have any concerns about food guarding, you can also give your dogs treats to mark calm, friendly behaviour.

Any growling that continues beyond a small initial warning would result in that dog losing temporary access to the resting spot.  They would calmly, but firmly be directed away from the area, helping them to understand that guarding is not ok with you.  They would not be allowed to return to the spot for several minutes. We do not want to use any fear or forceful methods in these interactions, which would increase the dog’s perception that this is truly a negative situation.  A light, trailing leash can be helpful for dogs that are demonstrating these behaviours frequently, as it to reduce the emotion in the interaction with the person moving them.

To do this, gently put them on the ground. If they posture again when they are allowed up, then they lose the privilege for the remainder of the evening or period that you are seated. Laps and beds are essentially treats that they need to earn!

If it’s their own bed or resting spot that is causing the reaction, then be sure that all dogs have their own unique place and encourage them to go to it. Once again, gates can be useful if there is too much arguing over a particular spot.

Long-Term Management for a Happy Home

If fighting is an ongoing concern, the dogs should not be left unattended together at all. While dogs are more likely to fight when their human is around, it can definitely happen just because they wanted to protect some resource or stop unwanted approaches. My house is pretty much permanently gated so that the dogs are safe!

Two or more dogs can be great for all involved, but please do pay proper attention to their interactions to keep everyone safe and happy! Always capture and praise the calm behaviour that you want to help the dogs understand this is what earns them positive attention.

Canine Campus Training is hiring Training Assistants!

Do you love working with dogs?  Comfortable around groups of them and wanting to build your formal training experience?    Canine Campus is looking to hire part time assistants for a couple of weekday evenings and Saturday afternoon.  This position requires a well presented person that is comfortable speaking with owners, is punctual and has some experience in the dog world.  We will happily work with you to build your skill set working alongside our certified trainers!

If you’re interested, please send a note through our contact form and Lucinda will get back to you quickly.

Puppy Crate mate!

CratemateI always recommend that when bringing a new puppy home, owners find a stuffed dog for their new addition. Sometimes I get the feeling that people think this is a tad crazy! However, the puppies do appreciate their new buddy and most bond with it quickly – this has even been demonstrated with wild or captive bred animals, such as at zoos and rehabilitation centers.

 Try to remember that your puppy is likely leaving behind a litter of buddies and that the transition can be stressful on a number of levels. Puppies tend to sleep in “pig piles” when they’re together; completely on top of each other and cuddled up close for comfort. Suddenly, mom is gone, as are all the familiar sights, scents and sounds and they’re all alone in their crate or bed.

At this age, puppy vision is not highly advanced and they tend to see more generalized outlines and recognize color shades. So if you find a stuffed dog with similar size and coloring to their littermates, and the same type of ears – floppy or up – puppies will recognize them as their new buddy.

Help your puppy have a positive transition! Pick up a crate mate before bringing them home. Ideally, send it to the breeder in advance to be placed with the litter, or even just bring it on the day you pick up your puppy. Scent is the most advanced sense that dog’s have, even as puppies! A familiar item and scent will go a long way to reducing the stress of what can be a difficult transition.

Here’s Dante, happily curled up with a very chocolate lab looking toy!

Change of environment and stress in dogs

dead pigWhen dogs experience major changes in their life, they often experience stress and show it in a number different ways.  Today, Ace killed his six-year-old (toy) pig. His beloved pig that he begged everyone to throw for him, or just cuddled up with on any given patio chair to gently squeak. We’ve built him a whole group of pigs over the years, not one of them even slightly damaged. He had loved them all and would often build a ‘pig pile’ at the base of his chair, or hoard them under the patio stairs. But today, he totally eviscerated his oldest one.

We are moving homes. Today, we emptied out the basement and made countless trips to the charity drops, piles in the garage and piles of trash. The dogs followed our every move, staying as close as possible to us. I knew this move would be very tough on them, but anticipated more stress reactions from my rescue than from Ace. Ty the rescue is licking more, glued to me and frantic when I leave. Ace has expressed his emotions mainly by blocking the door when I want to go and barging through – despite the manners that he’s had over all his 7 years. But today, I saw just how stressed he was when I saw him destroy a toy for the first time in his whole life. As I relaxed in the hot tub after a long and stressful day (yup, drink and a soak is my idea of relaxing!), he lay on the grass and killed his pig.

People often share pictures of their ‘bad dogs’ that have destroyed something, the dog looking appropriately shamed. What the dog is actually showing is a reaction to the owner’s displeasure, not an understanding of what they did was wrong. Stress and anxiety show themselves in different ways in different dogs. One may self-harm with excessive licking, another may get destructive of things, while another may try desperately to follow their owner and damage doors and windows to do so.

Stress can cause indoor accidents as well, and I’m fully anticipating these. Adrenaline and cortisol have an effect on the internal organs, which can cause both uncontrolled urination and bowel movements. For this reason, my dogs are now being contained when I go out, so that they aren’t frantically running about, making accidents of kinds more likely.

An excellent means of helping dogs handle new and stressful situations is an increase in exercise. The brain experiences a rush of stress hormones, called glucocorticoids when we exercise. Why is that good for stress levels? In the long run, exercise trains the brain to better deal with stress. In studies, animals who exercise more are less anxious in stressful situations, are more likely to find a solution to a problem, such as a maze, and are less likely to lose track of the goal.  We’re now heading out for a big run, to help them cope better when I leave.

Anticipate what your dog is feeling, don’t just react after the fact. Holidays and their commotions, departure for vacations, back to school are all disruptions that can bring about new and unwanted behaviours if not managed well.

PPG Summit 2016 in Tampa Florida

ppg-logoThe Pet Professional Guild features…

Lucinda Glenny at the PPG 2016 Educational Summit Nov 10, 2016 at The Sheraton Tampa East in Florida USA.

Lucinda will be presenting her lecture Thursday, November 10 at 11 am in the Cypress Room.  The subject of her lecture will be “Roots of aggression. Temperament is not an empty slate; the effects of early learning on adult canine disposition”. See the poster below.

The 2016 Pet Professional Guild Summit is being held at the Sheraton Tampa East in Florida USA. The summit spans 5 days from Nov. 7th through 11th, and features 3.5 Days of Education, Networking & Force-Free Fun!

Visit their site for details on The location, presenter schedule, presenters packages, pricing, evening entertainment,  summit registration and more.

 

Size Matters! Small Dog Syndrome

Sonic,head shot_258

Small dogs are unevenly represented on bite statistic reports, which many attribute to the “small dog syndrome”.  Small dog syndrome is hypothesized to be interplay of genetic factors, owner handling and lack of training creating an overall reactive and uncontrollable animal. Multi-national studies have found evidence of this, particularly in the Jack Russell Terrier, Cocker Spaniel and Dachshund. The Chihuahua breed has risen to the top in the category of aggression to all targets: family, other dogs in the home and strange dogs. They have unfortunately become one of the top surrendered breeds to Humane Societies in the US, as owners discover that they cannot manage the behaviors.

Small dog syndrome is characterized by a number of exogenous and endogenous factors that interact to determine how the behavior chain will play out. Genetics and temperament are important and intractable elements in behavior, but other internal and external factors can be manipulated. We can interrupt the learning loops that encourage and effectively train the behavior , reducing the rewarding effect. Any behavior that successfully delivers a desired outcome has a greater potential to be repeated – dogs of all sizes do what works for them. When the small dog reacts aggressively and the person or animal retreats, they are rewarded for engaging in the behavior. Owners may not initially feel as threatened by a bite coming from a 10-pound dog; something that would be quickly recognized as dangerous in a German Shepherd may be tolerated far longer in a small dog.

There are many unanswered questions regarding the small dog syndrome phenomenon, including why they are so quick to escalate in their aggression. A potential factor that may significantly contribute to the maintenance and severity of the behaviors in question is owner-training methods. There is evidence that small breeds are prone to demonstrate heightened reactivity and aggressive responses when physical punishment methods are employed, which may be a result of being more vulnerable to the physical manipulation of the owner.

Dominance training encourages owner behaviors that are counterproductive to creating a calm dog, and owner induced aggression is often the result.   In a recent survey study, it was found that 31% of owners utilized the alpha role, and that a quarter of these interactions resulted in an aggressive response.  Since the small dog is easier to physically master, the alpha role is frequently employed and the incidence of aggression to familiar people escalated when these methods were used.

What can be done to avoid small dog syndrome in your pet?

Respect and treat them as a dog!  Many actions that an owner would not/could not continue with a large breed past puppyhood, are maintained with small dogs.  Small dogs are often subjected to excessive and unwanted handling, with no respect to how the dog may feel at the time. Behaviours such as:

  • Scooping the small dog up from behind, with no warning that they are being lifted, can contribute to a lack of confidence and heightened reactivity on the approach of a person.
  • Holding the small dog in your arms while forcing them into the belly up position for petting can make them feel quite vulnerable and may elicit an unwanted reaction.
  • Allowing the dog to be petted by others while trapped in the owner’s arms. This prevents them from showing fear or defensive body language, or to remove themselves from the unwanted attention. Their remaining line of defense is to their teeth.

Find suitable socialization opportunities.  This includes safe interaction with different size dogs and novel people under 16 weeks of age. Owners often do not get their small breed dog out early, fearing that it is too fragile. The fact that they continue to look like a young puppy can lead an owner to feel that they don’t need to start training in earnest until they are much older.  Early exposure will build a better understanding of what is acceptable in their world and make a significant difference in the adult behaviour.  This is especially true for breeds that have been shown to possess a heightened inclination to generalized reactivity. We want to build their confidence, so that they feel safe and not on the defensive!

Daily exercise outside is critical!  Although they may not need as much space as a larger breed, it is still crucial to let them learn how to behave in the world.  Exercise also increases the brain’s ability to deal with stress, which is so important for any breed that is prone to the shy end of the boldness spectrum.

Train them as you would a larger breed.  While a small dog misbehaving may not seem as challenging as a Golden Retriever, it can and often does escalate to more forward behaviours as they learn that they can control the actions of those around them.  The more they practice behaviours such as lap or food guarding, the more entrenched it can become, until we arrive at the small dog with an outsized attitude of entitlement! A simple matter of house guidelines for any sized dog, so that they build manners and respect is important. Set meal times, require basic manners before walks, invite them onto the furniture and practice asking them to get off on command.   Just because they are little does not mean they don’t have a high level of intelligence that needs to be directed!

Care around Children!  Small dogs are at particular risk being handled inappropriately by small children, which can escalate their perception that they need to be on guard around them. Parents need to instruct children to allow the pup to come to them, ideally while seated on the floor, precluding the need to pick up the puppy.  This will help to build improve the sense of safety for the pup, reducing anxiety and defensive displays.

Small dogs can accomplish anything and everything a large breed dog can do, but we do need to be respectful of their greater vulnerability due to size. Look at things from their (very low) point of view!

Exercise benefits for Anxious Dogs

Exercise and the high anxiety dog

 Lucinda Glenny MSc Animal Welfare, HBSc Psychology, CPDT-KA

Anxiety is a feeling of unease or fear of occurring events. It can cause panic attacks, which make     the body seize up and activate the peripheral nervous system’s “fight or flight” mode. This causes increased heart rate, sweating, rapid breath, tension in the chest, increased blood pressure, and ultimately fear. When in this state, animals are not able to think or act clearly and cannot process information appropriately.

How does exercise help alleviate these symptoms? There is often an odd sense of happiness that occurs after exercise, which is primarily caused by endorphins. Endorphins act on the same neurological centers as opioids, which improve our tolerance to stress and pain. In addition to endorphins,   the brain stimulates the production of serotonin, dopamine and norepinephrine, all of which play a key role in making us feel better.

Many studies have found the positive correlation of increased exercise for human and animal subjects and  a reduction in outward signs of anxiety.

Exercise stimulates neurogenesis in the hippocampus, the main center for the control of mood, by a chemical called Brain Derived Neurotrophic Factor (BDNF). Studies have shown that the hippocampus in depressed women is 15% smaller than in those without depression. Therefore, by stimulating the growth of the hippocampus, the symptoms of depression and anxiety should, theoretically be diminished.

When people or animals first start to exercise, the brain experiences a rush of stress hormones, called glucocorticoids. Why would that be good for stress levels? In the long run, exercise trains the brains to better deal with stress. In studies, animals who exercise are less anxious in stressful situations, are more likely to find a solution to a problem, such as running a maze, and are less likely to lose track of the goal.

Exercise makes us smarter and improves ability to cope with stress!

Walking three hours a week for only three months generates so many new neurons that you can measure the difference in brain size. That’s because exercise increases the level of neurotrophins, chemicals that promote the creation of new brain cells. Exercising regularly also enhances memory and the ability to learn new tasks, whereas stress impairs neurogenesis and can impede the ability to learn.

Anyone that has been through a divorce or lost a loved one can tell you how hard it is to remember or learn new things during a stressful period. It’s believed that a combination of the reduction in neurogenesis, cell loss and changes in remaining cells can disrupt the thought processes. Of course, this takes time to happen, so usually it’s only prolonged stress that has major effects on the brain. Luckily, regular exercise can combat these negative effects, boost brainpower and reduce stress levels. In reference to anxious dogs, these same factors can aide in leading your dog to remain in a calmer and more confident state.

For most dogs we generally recommend a long walk to help tire them out – but for the HA dog, this can actually increase the problem. Try to find ways to physically tire your dog before walking them – ball tossing in the yard, tag in the house, fetch up carpeted stairs are all ways to use up some of that excess energy. It’s not surprising that the breed types that we see many difficulties with are ones who have a lot of energy.

By tiring your dog prior to subjecting them to the triggers, they will be more able to manage the situations appropriately.

In order to obtain the best results, animals should be exercised vigorously, on a regular basis. Also, combine it with a proper diet and positive encouragement. The most substantial improvements in mental health are made with a combination of exercise, medication and behavioural therapy.

Those mouthy puppies!

All puppies like to explore their environment with their mouths and when playing with other puppies they do this constantly. Unfortunately, when playing with their human companions, this can be painful, as we don’t have the fur to protect us from those sharp teeth and our clothing can seem so very fun to pull on!

When puppies are under 16 weeks of age, they are learning what is called ‘bite inhibition’. This means understanding how to use their mouth in contact with other living things, without biting too hard. This is best taught to them by another puppy, which will respond with a high-pitched squeak when the playmate bites down too hard. The puppy brain is hard wired to understand this sound and lighten the pressure. If they don’t, the other puppy will stop playing with them, teaching them that if they don’t play nicely – they don’t get to play at all. Owners can use these same strategies; squeak when the puppy bites too hard, and leave the area when they won’t stop. One very important element that has to be added in for human/puppy play is redirecting the puppy’s mouth from the skin to a SOFT toy, where they get the same sensation as playing with a puppy. Make the toy more interesting by flopping it around, so that the puppy wants to grab it, not you.

There will be times when the puppy just gets overexcited and can no longer think clearly – they go into what I call the shark stage! This is notable for non-stop grabbing at hands and clothes, possibly vocalizing and being unresponsive to anything you say. There is no point at this stage in trying to discipline, or even interact with the puppy, as they are too aroused to learn anything. Any type of physical intervention, such as grabbing the muzzle, or holding them down on their back, will usually result in a more aggressive response from the puppy. The best thing to do at this point is to either remove your self from the room that the puppy is in, or put them calmly in their crate to settle down. This is NOT meant to be punishment and they can have a busy toy, such as a stuffed Kong in the crate to help settle them down. They need to be quietly in there for at least 10 to 15 minutes and then when releasing them, be sure to be very calm with them so that you don’t get them all excited again.

Take note of when this happens most frequently, as there is usually a pattern. Often if a play session is too long or too exciting, the puppy gets over-stimulated. Be sure to have pause in play, where you work at just gently petting them, so that they learn to quiet nicely. End of day and just before bed are other likely times, as the pup is tired and more likely to act inappropriately – just like a tired baby! Anticipate this and have a good busy toy ready to give them in a quiet place, before they get riled up.

Puppy research by Lucinda featured on OVC website!

The research conducted for my MSc degree on the importance of puppy socialization and its effect on long term behaviour is now featured on the Ontario Veterinary College website!  This is such an honor, I am truly grateful!

The research highlights the positive impact that proper socialization can have for puppies and the significant effect that can be seen on minimizing aggressive behaviours.  It is an important topic for owners, breeders and those in the veterinary business to become familiar with, as the current beliefs still predominantly lean towards waiting until 16 weeks and all sets of shots before beginning socialization.  The sensitive stage is over at that point, and there are so many safe methods of socializing pups earlier.  The OVC itself now clearly states and trains new Veterinarians to encourage animals to be socialized 10 days after the first set of shots.  I am so proud that my research helped to accomplish this!

“The Importance of Puppy Socialization” on the OVC site.

Sensitive Learning Stages in Puppies

An excerpt from a full research study: Effects of Early Social Stimuli on Adult Temperament in Dogs (Canis familiaris)

There have been numerous studies on a variety of species investigating the positive affect of early socialization and exposure to novel stimuli, and their impact on development (Hebb, 2003; Hubrecht, 1995; Fox, 1971).  In dogs, this highly sensitive social learning stage has been found to fall between the ages of 7-14 weeks  (Battaglia, 2009).   Pups that remain in the breeder’s facility during this stage need to be actively socialized with other breeds of dogs and places.   This period also coincides with the age when many pups are moved to their new homes, raising the potential for behavioral issues if not handled appropriately.   Classes and educational materials delivered during this period from the breeder, Veterinarians and professionals can help ease this transition (Gazzano, 2008).

The predisposition to a particular temperament type in dogs is considered to be inborn, (Slabbert, 1999; Svartberg & Bjorn, 2002), which can run the spectrum from a confident and pro-social attitude to one predominated by anxiety and neurosis (Coren, 1999).   Research supports the concept that there is a strong inter-relation of disposition, environment and learning stages that work to produce the mature animal.  In the case of dogs, an anxious temperament may manifest itself in acts of aggression towards people or animals, which increases the risk of surrender.   Working with a young, developing puppy with gentle exposure to many different experiences in the period of 5- 14 weeks has been shown to be an effective and pro-active method to prevent behavioural problems.   Positive early experiences can have a protective effect on the adult animal.   It is not possible to fully recreate this important effect after 16 weeks of age.

Research completed by Fox (2010) suggests that the early learning period is a crucial factor in the development of brain architecture, which provides for proper processing of novel stimuli and a reduction of stress behaviours.  Without this exposure, the dog does not have the opportunity to build sufficient coping mechanisms, which can translate to fear or aggression in the adult animal.  Animals that receive formal socialization classes during this stage have the opportunity to build a wide range of positive associations (Seskel, 1997) and thus are far more prepared to confidently handle real world situations.

Since 2008, the AVSAB has approved of the outside socialization of young pups from as early as 10 days after receiving their first set of shots and going to their new home. The maternal antibodies present and the effect of the first shots provide sufficient protection for such experiences as going out for a walk, or going to puppy socialization classes in accredited facilities.   Research demonstrates that under-socialized animals experience difficulty in accepting novel stimuli with confidence, with potentially long-term effects on their interpretation of common world experiences, such as strangers, bikes, trucks and other dogs (McMillan, Duffy, Serpell, 2011; Battaglia, 2009).

Studies support the concept that through class participation, a reduction of aggression in dogs and increased retention in the home can be achieved (Casey, Loftus, Bolster, Richards & Blackwell, 2014; Duxbury, Jackson, Line & Anderson 2003).  There is a great deal of scientific evidence supporting the idea that social exposure in sensitive stages translates to minimized unwanted behavioural issues, particularly anxiety induced ones.  Introduction of a heightened program of early socialization during the fear onset stage of 7 – 14 weeks has been shown to promote improved interaction skills with both people and other dogs (Duxbury et al (2003).

While formal training classes are generally deemed a positive experience (Duxbury et al, 2003), all classes are not based on the same learning principles, or quality of instruction.  Classes that are overcrowded, or employ aversive techniques can potentially have a highly negative affect on an animal’s perception of social arenas.   Owners need to fully investigate local training facilities to determine their methods in advance.  A well-versed owner can also provide their pet the same level of exposure and positive training methods, while not enrolling in a formal class.

It is so important for breeders to start the exposure process while the pups are still with them, from as early as 3 weeks of age.  Information on gentle exposure should be provided new owners, in order to help with important transition period.  Reducing stress of the move can also be achieved through the use of Adaptil collars in the first month in the new home, and by sending home an item with the familiar scent of the litter.