Socializing Your Dog When Socially Isolating

These are unprecedented times, and every aspect of our lives has been affected.
While humans deal with their loss of freedom, financial stress, and health issues, our
companion animals feel these changes in different ways.
Our pets are happy to suddenly have their people around so much, but there are
challenges for them that need to be addressed. Your dog’s current age has an impact
on how these new isolation experiences will affect them.
Young Puppies
Puppies under 16 weeks are in a highly sensitive social learning stage, during which
they learn critical skills and acceptance. While they will benefit from the extra
attention from family being home with them, this doesn’t necessarily translate to
real-world experiences.
Some skills, such as house-training, may be improved through this family
involvement. Other skills, such as acceptance of strangers, can become more of a
challenge. We saw this when parvovirus first hit back in the 1980s and puppies
were not being socialized at all. A year down the road, data showed that there was a
large spike in behavioural issues.
Creative solutions will need to be designed to help address the very real lack of new
interactions. It is recommended that pups meet and interact with 50 new people in
their first 16 weeks, in order to build a comfort level with a wide range of types.
After 16 weeks, pups are far less accepting of new people, so we’ve got to help them
now as much as possible. Walks in the neighborhood with your puppy on a 6- to 8-
foot leash can let them say hi while you both still keep the appropriate distance.

There is significant evidence that dogs often see men as being scarier than women,
and research suggests that the difference in a man’s stride may be a cause, while
their lower voices may also be perceived as more threatening. Whatever the reason,
it is a real factor and needs to be addressed accordingly. While out on a walk, ask a
man to stand sideways and toss your pup a treat, or ask them to crouch down and
allow your pup to approach them while ensuring your dog stays at least 2 metres
Kids also have a different way of moving that can be scary for pups, so going outside
to parks once they’re open again and staying at a good distance can help a lot.
Find safe opportunities where you can help your puppy observe a lot of different
types of people from a safe distance. If it is safe for you to do so, stationing yourself
in a parking lot of a grocery store or hardware store can provide some great
experiences, including rattling carts, sliding glass doors, and people moving toward
and away from you.

Trash day is an excellent opportunity to practise having your pup watch something
novel – from the safety of your front step! The trucks are loud and big; the people
wear bright vests and create a lot of commotion, picking up and throwing things.
Calmly watching with a loose leash and treats can help condition your puppy to this
experience. Start while the truck is a few doors away, as the noise is quite loud and
Learning bite inhibition – the proper use of pressure in contact with others – must
be learned before 16 weeks of age. While it is ideally taught from interactions with
other pups in play, it is still possible to build what is known as a soft mouth with just
human interaction. Work on creating a “gentle” or “soft” cue when engaging with
your puppy.
Teaching them the cue “gentle” when licking soft food from the palm of your hand is
a great place to start. Tug-of-war is a really excellent game, but at this stage, with no
other pups to interact with, I do recommend refraining from it until after 16 weeks
of age. For now, we want to teach puppies to engage with toys, hands, and other
dogs softly.
You’ll have a lifetime to teach tug fun, but only up to 16 weeks to get a soft mouth!
Playing doorbell games is a great thing to practise with dogs of all ages! We want to
help them learn to not get overly excited every time they hear them, including on TV
shows! Start with a soft knock from a family member and then toss a treat toward
your dog’s bed to teach them to move away from the door. You can play this game
with a recorded round of doorbells, slowly increasing the volume, so that it stops
being such an exciting cue.
Once you are able to interact and be in public in a more normal manner, don’t rush
new experiences. Let your puppy choose their own pace when approaching a novel
thing and the distance to observe it from. Be aware that just because you know
something isn’t a threat doesn’t mean that it isn’t scary for them. Fear is an
emotional response, not a rational one, and the goal is to slowly change your dog’s
perspective about an experience.
You should pay careful attention to your puppy’s body language during any greeting
or new experience. If they are crouched down, have their tail down or tucked under,
have their head lowered, or are putting the brakes on before approaching, then you
need to stop! Giving your pup a chance to observe while remaining stationary will
often help them be willing to approach. If they continue to resist, move fully away
from the situation and note that you need to start from a greater distance next time!
Mature Dogs

Is your dog happy to have you home but bored? If you notice that they are getting
into trouble more often, it may be because they don’t have enough stimulation.
Being a couch potato may be nice for you, but most dogs need more to engage them.
Get creative!
Balance boards, kids’ tunnels, toddler play structures, balls in a plastic pool, and
jumping through hula hoops are all easy ways to keep dogs of any age engaged!
Some great owner-oriented games include hide-and-seek and recall games where
you call your dog back and forth between family members. Not only does this
increase their love of hearing the cue “come” by practising it in such a fun manner,
you’ll tire them out as well!
Teaching new tricks rather than obedience skills tends to keep things light and
happy. While a solid “stay” cue is highly desirable, a happy pop up in the air or fast
spin is so much more fun! Smiles for us, which trigger our endorphins, and physical
exercise and release for them. A true win-win!
Try to maintain a similar routine to when you are away at work, to avoid the stress
of a big change to the schedule. The departure-to-work time is often the most
stressful part of the day for dogs, so try to practise separating yourself from them
every day at the same time. Even just an hour or two alone each day will help to
keep your dog on a regular schedule. Do some yard work or take a walk on your
own, so that your dog isn’t becoming too dependent on having you in the home at all
times. Avoid allowing them to follow you everywhere in the home with the use of
gates or by closing doors.
When we do return to our regular schedules, it will likely result in an adjustment
period for everyone. We are likely to be more tired and have less time for our pets.
Ease your pets back into your usual schedule as the day of return to work
approaches by increasing their alone time.
Good luck, stay safe, and try to enjoy your time with your dog!

Baby it’s cold outside!

I wrote this originally for winter woes and it was published in Speaking of Dog’s award winning newsletter.  However,  I thought that with the social isolation many of us are experiencing, it was a good time to revisit it!

With the cold weather we experience in Ontario, it’s often not just the owners who don’t want to go outside! Many times I’ve opened the back door to let my dogs out, but they stick their noses out the door, sniff, and back right up! While they’ll have to go out to do their business, we also need to keep them active and engaged with shorter walks and yard romps.

Do you remember how exhausting it is to start a new job or field of study? Your brain hurts, and you’re physically wiped out at the end of the day. That’s because using our brain in new ways is tiring. Now we want to employ that concept with our dogs to tire them out!

Using inside games and skills is a great idea all year long, but especially important during the long winter months.

Stair Master!

Dogs over 18 months of age can play this fun game that engages their brain and gives them a full body workout. Game requirements are simple:

  1. Dog participants must be old enough for their joints to be well formed
  2. The stairs and landing area must be carpeted to avoid slipping and injuries
  3. Some dogs may need a long line

This game works on impulse control while also tiring them out, with lots of dashing up and down the stairs. If your dogs are not able to do stairs yet or you don’t have access to any, a long hall works well too.

Ask your dog for sit-stay or down-stay at one end of the staircase or hall, and then toss a toy up or down the stairs. Wait a moment before releasing them with a happy direction of your fetch command.

During the first couple of tries, you may need to gently hold their collar to keep them in place while they learn the rules.

As they progress, you can ask for a couple of other behaviours before releasing them to fetch – but not too many, or they’ll lose interest in the game. The game itself is intrinsically reinforcing for many dogs, but some may need the random treat to reinforce a quick return with the fetched item.

Mark with a ‘Yes!” as soon as they pick up the item, and then use your recall command to get them to come back. Be sure to cheer them on with praise and hand claps as they’re coming back, so that they’re clear you are really happy with them.

You can work this skill on the flat with a long line for dogs that don’t return automatically until they understand the idea that it pays!

For avid fetchers, try to change the landing spot of the toy, so that your dog has to do a bit of a search to find it, not just go to the same spot every time.

Skills reinforced: impulse control, basic commands, speed, fetch and return with an item

Barrel Racing!

This is a great exercise for working a bit of distance skills and building up speed. It’s easiest done on carpeting or non-slip flooring!


  1. 1 to 3 small soccer cones or upturned garden planters
  2. Ideally carpeted or other non-slip flooring – an area rug is plenty of room!

Set up one cone just under a metre (2 feet) away from you and have your dog beside you. The first couple of times you can use a light leash to guide your dog around the cone, and praise and drop a treat just as they make the turn. We want the treat dropped on the ground, not still in your hand, so that the skill is being reinforced and your dogs aren’t looking for your hand.

The next step is to toss a treat or have a touch top on the far side of the cone and send your dog to it. Once they are behind the cone, use your body and opposite arm to encourage them to come around the cone. Immediately praise their first step past centre and toss a treat between you and the cone to encourage your dog’s forward movement in the right direction.

Skills reinforced: moving away from the handler, speed, agility, understanding left and right at the advanced levels

Colour/Toy Choice!

Get out the plastic cups and have some fun while teaching your dogs to pick the right colour! Dogs are dichromatic, meaning they only see yellow and blue shades. Like colour-blind people, they don’t really see red or green as we do. So we can introduce a new use for our white, blue, or yellow plastic cups.


  1. Minimum of 2 differently coloured plastic cups (white, blue, or yellow)
  2. A similar game can be played with different styles of toys – such as a ball, a rope, and a stuffed toy

Place one cup of each colour upside down a short distance away from you, with the cups about 30 cm (1 foot) apart. Place a treat under just one of the cups. Have your dog a short distance away from the cups, and then send them to “find yellow” (or whatever colour of cup the treat is under). Do the same with the other color of cup, and then put a treat under that cup again. Be sure to not just go back and forth, changing colours each time, or your dog will think that they’re learning a pattern. Switch up what side the cups are on and try again. When your dog seems pretty confident, add in a third colour of cup using the same technique, but first only send your dog to the original two colours, letting them notice that there’s a new one there.

For the toys, have two types that your dog is familiar with but are very different from each other, like a ball and a stuffed toy. Show your dog the ball, name it, and treat when they sniff it. Do the same with the stuffed toy.

Next, put both toys on the ground. Start somewhat closer to one toy, let’s say the ball, and direct your dog to “get the ball.” Praise as soon as they start toward the ball, so they feel confident that they’re making the right decision. To not correct if they go to the wrong one, but rather do not praise or treat them, and say a happy “Let’s find the ball!”

Skills reinforced: distance work, learning colour/item discrimination, ability to go to assigned target by word alone.

Snuffle Mats

These are cloth mats designed to provide lots of places to hide treats. They’re available online, or you can make your own. As we know, a dog’s sense of smell is the most advanced of its senses and one that they love to put to good use.

The action of sniffing has a calming effect on the brain for dogs, as it uses a deeper breath with a closed mouth to bring the scent into the brain. This provides an alternative behaviour to the active panting of an anxious dog, and it can also interrupt barking. Panting increases the heart rate and barking fires up hormones. Engaging your dog in active sniffing can help to reduce anxiety and quiet them at times that may be exciting, like visitors in the home – but it’s also just a lot of fun!

With the cold winter weather setting in, don’t let your dog suffer from cabin fever. Bring the fun inside, and teach them some entertaining new skills!

Dealing with Sibling Rivalry

Dealing with Sibling Rivalry


Dog owners are keenly aware of the many benefits of sharing their life with a dog. But did you know that numerous scientific studies have found that dog ownership has a significant positive impact on our health, including lowering a person’s risk of heart disease?


Having one dog in the family is wonderful and provides opportunities for walks, cuddles, fun, and games. However, our busy lives can translate into having to leave our dogs for long hours alone at home, which is often less than ideal. Adding a companion for your companion can give them additional outlets when you aren’t available – or even when you are!

However, it is important to pick the right dog in order to ensure a smooth transition and a lifetime of love between your pets. Please give serious consideration to the reality that some dogs do prefer to be singletons and don’t want to share their human’s love or have other dogs in their space. Don’t try to force them into it, as it can have negative emotional and physical ramifications!

Households with multiple dogs can experience jealousy, resource guarding, and play that just becomes a little too excited, going from play fighting to a real fight. It is critical to look at the dynamics of sex and age on how behaviours work out, as not all combinations are equally successful.

Issues Related to Gender

A very important element to consider is the gender of the dogs involved, since the differences in sexes are real! While it is possible for any gender combination to work, a combination of a boy and girl or two boys are the preferred pairings. Scientific studies have shown that two girls are significantly more likely to fight at a dangerous and damaging level and that a boy and a girl are the least likely to experience problems.

Statistically, not only do we do see a heightened level of difficulty when integrating a female dog into a home with a single resident female dog, but the fights are more likely to result in real injury and even death. There are a number of reasons why this may be the case, such as females being more likely to resource guard both their owner and their things, including food, bones, beds, and toys from another female. Females are innately looking to protect resources for their unborn litters, which isn’t a consideration for males, who don’t participate at any level in parenthood.

This guarding often stays at a low threshold, but it can erupt suddenly in a silent but dangerous way. While most male aggression is ritualistic, with a high level of noise and posturing, fights between females can escalate very quickly, and they are far more likely to result in injury. Any inter-female aggression should be taken very seriously and interrupted immediately.

The Age-Old Question?

Age is also a major factor, as puppies are truly obnoxious in their play style and literally get in the face of other dogs. Most adult dogs are intolerant of this behaviour and may give a harsh correction to the puppy. A puppy under 10 months of age should be closely watched when interacting with dogs under 6 years of age and not allowed to play with a dog over 6 years if there is any indication that the older dog is not interested.

The early interactions between puppies and adult dogs can also have long-term repercussions. An adult dog that is consistently growling or physically correcting a puppy may be on the receiving end when the pup grows up and realizes that they are the stronger one now. The older dog will have shown them that physical corrections are okay.

Dogs are very observational learners, especially when young, so we need to ensure that they are getting a calm message from the older dog. This means that the pup should be tired out with toy and human interactions before being allowed to interact with the older dog. Be sure to interrupt overt grabbing by the puppy at the adult’s body and have them take frequent breaks to settle down. Note that the dogs’ body clocks may be different as well, so the older one may want to play sometimes – but not all the time! You can use gates at various times of day, when one dog is feeling tired and the other just keeps begging to play.


Personality Conflicts

Dogs have personalities, too, and these differences can create strife in any pair. When that happens, it can be hard to tell when we need to step in and manage the situation and when we should let them work it out. The key is to minimize the triggers that cause fighting and to recognize how triggers can pile up.

Be aware of the interactions that are most likely to be dangerous, and be especially vigilant at those times. The three most likely triggers of over-arousal are:

  1. Protecting a bed or lap space
  2. High-value bones, toys, treats, or meals
  3. Arousing play

That last one can seem like an oxymoron – how can play be a problem? When dogs (or kids, for that matter) are playing, the activity can trigger the happy hormones called endorphins, but it can also trigger the stress hormones cortisol and adrenalin as well as testosterone. When play continues uninterrupted, these hormones can create a more intense interaction, and the play can slip into actual aggression. Be sure to help your dogs take frequent breaks in play, to keep things from escalating.

Resource Guarding

Things like feeding dogs their meals or bones fully separated can go a long way to reduce anxiety over resources. Ideally, they should be completely out of each other’s sight and any leftovers should be picked up immediately.

Ultimately, we want to create a calm environment while our dogs are eating anything in order to reduce stress on the one that is most likely to be challenged. I recommend having dogs in separate rooms or crates if there has been any posturing at all. They can likely be together while the meal is being prepared, practising calmness at that time, but only if it doesn’t provoke any growling or snapping.

With lap or bed guarding, you can gently rest your hand on the collar of the dog already in place and lightly hold them there as the other dog approaches. Calming strokes on the back reduces their stress level, and the light collar hold prevents them from lunging at the other dog. Continue to pet them and give calm praise as the other dog gets up, and provide enough space so that they each have their own spot to lie down on. As long as it’s safe to do so and you don’t have any concerns about food guarding, you can also give your dogs treats to mark calm, friendly behaviour.

Any growling that continues beyond a small initial warning would result in that dog losing temporary access to the resting spot.  They would calmly, but firmly be directed away from the area, helping them to understand that guarding is not ok with you.  They would not be allowed to return to the spot for several minutes. We do not want to use any fear or forceful methods in these interactions, which would increase the dog’s perception that this is truly a negative situation.  A light, trailing leash can be helpful for dogs that are demonstrating these behaviours frequently, as it to reduce the emotion in the interaction with the person moving them.

To do this, gently put them on the ground. If they posture again when they are allowed up, then they lose the privilege for the remainder of the evening or period that you are seated. Laps and beds are essentially treats that they need to earn!

If it’s their own bed or resting spot that is causing the reaction, then be sure that all dogs have their own unique place and encourage them to go to it. Once again, gates can be useful if there is too much arguing over a particular spot.

Long-Term Management for a Happy Home

If fighting is an ongoing concern, the dogs should not be left unattended together at all. While dogs are more likely to fight when their human is around, it can definitely happen just because they wanted to protect some resource or stop unwanted approaches. My house is pretty much permanently gated so that the dogs are safe!

Two or more dogs can be great for all involved, but please do pay proper attention to their interactions to keep everyone safe and happy! Always capture and praise the calm behaviour that you want to help the dogs understand this is what earns them positive attention.

Puppy Crate mate!

CratemateI always recommend that when bringing a new puppy home, owners find a stuffed dog for their new addition. Sometimes I get the feeling that people think this is a tad crazy! However, the puppies do appreciate their new buddy and most bond with it quickly – this has even been demonstrated with wild or captive bred animals, such as at zoos and rehabilitation centers.

 Try to remember that your puppy is likely leaving behind a litter of buddies and that the transition can be stressful on a number of levels. Puppies tend to sleep in “pig piles” when they’re together; completely on top of each other and cuddled up close for comfort. Suddenly, mom is gone, as are all the familiar sights, scents and sounds and they’re all alone in their crate or bed.

At this age, puppy vision is not highly advanced and they tend to see more generalized outlines and recognize color shades. So if you find a stuffed dog with similar size and coloring to their littermates, and the same type of ears – floppy or up – puppies will recognize them as their new buddy.

Help your puppy have a positive transition! Pick up a crate mate before bringing them home. Ideally, send it to the breeder in advance to be placed with the litter, or even just bring it on the day you pick up your puppy. Scent is the most advanced sense that dog’s have, even as puppies! A familiar item and scent will go a long way to reducing the stress of what can be a difficult transition.

Here’s Dante, happily curled up with a very chocolate lab looking toy!

Change of environment and stress in dogs

dead pigWhen dogs experience major changes in their life, they often experience stress and show it in a number different ways.  Today, Ace killed his six-year-old (toy) pig. His beloved pig that he begged everyone to throw for him, or just cuddled up with on any given patio chair to gently squeak. We’ve built him a whole group of pigs over the years, not one of them even slightly damaged. He had loved them all and would often build a ‘pig pile’ at the base of his chair, or hoard them under the patio stairs. But today, he totally eviscerated his oldest one.

We are moving homes. Today, we emptied out the basement and made countless trips to the charity drops, piles in the garage and piles of trash. The dogs followed our every move, staying as close as possible to us. I knew this move would be very tough on them, but anticipated more stress reactions from my rescue than from Ace. Ty the rescue is licking more, glued to me and frantic when I leave. Ace has expressed his emotions mainly by blocking the door when I want to go and barging through – despite the manners that he’s had over all his 7 years. But today, I saw just how stressed he was when I saw him destroy a toy for the first time in his whole life. As I relaxed in the hot tub after a long and stressful day (yup, drink and a soak is my idea of relaxing!), he lay on the grass and killed his pig.

People often share pictures of their ‘bad dogs’ that have destroyed something, the dog looking appropriately shamed. What the dog is actually showing is a reaction to the owner’s displeasure, not an understanding of what they did was wrong. Stress and anxiety show themselves in different ways in different dogs. One may self-harm with excessive licking, another may get destructive of things, while another may try desperately to follow their owner and damage doors and windows to do so.

Stress can cause indoor accidents as well, and I’m fully anticipating these. Adrenaline and cortisol have an effect on the internal organs, which can cause both uncontrolled urination and bowel movements. For this reason, my dogs are now being contained when I go out, so that they aren’t frantically running about, making accidents of kinds more likely.

An excellent means of helping dogs handle new and stressful situations is an increase in exercise. The brain experiences a rush of stress hormones, called glucocorticoids when we exercise. Why is that good for stress levels? In the long run, exercise trains the brain to better deal with stress. In studies, animals who exercise more are less anxious in stressful situations, are more likely to find a solution to a problem, such as a maze, and are less likely to lose track of the goal.  We’re now heading out for a big run, to help them cope better when I leave.

Anticipate what your dog is feeling, don’t just react after the fact. Holidays and their commotions, departure for vacations, back to school are all disruptions that can bring about new and unwanted behaviours if not managed well.

Size Matters! Small Dog Syndrome

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Small dogs are unevenly represented on bite statistic reports, which many attribute to the “small dog syndrome”.  Small dog syndrome is hypothesized to be interplay of genetic factors, owner handling and lack of training creating an overall reactive and uncontrollable animal. Multi-national studies have found evidence of this, particularly in the Jack Russell Terrier, Cocker Spaniel and Dachshund. The Chihuahua breed has risen to the top in the category of aggression to all targets: family, other dogs in the home and strange dogs. They have unfortunately become one of the top surrendered breeds to Humane Societies in the US, as owners discover that they cannot manage the behaviors.

Small dog syndrome is characterized by a number of exogenous and endogenous factors that interact to determine how the behavior chain will play out. Genetics and temperament are important and intractable elements in behavior, but other internal and external factors can be manipulated. We can interrupt the learning loops that encourage and effectively train the behavior , reducing the rewarding effect. Any behavior that successfully delivers a desired outcome has a greater potential to be repeated – dogs of all sizes do what works for them. When the small dog reacts aggressively and the person or animal retreats, they are rewarded for engaging in the behavior. Owners may not initially feel as threatened by a bite coming from a 10-pound dog; something that would be quickly recognized as dangerous in a German Shepherd may be tolerated far longer in a small dog.

There are many unanswered questions regarding the small dog syndrome phenomenon, including why they are so quick to escalate in their aggression. A potential factor that may significantly contribute to the maintenance and severity of the behaviors in question is owner-training methods. There is evidence that small breeds are prone to demonstrate heightened reactivity and aggressive responses when physical punishment methods are employed, which may be a result of being more vulnerable to the physical manipulation of the owner.

Dominance training encourages owner behaviors that are counterproductive to creating a calm dog, and owner induced aggression is often the result.   In a recent survey study, it was found that 31% of owners utilized the alpha role, and that a quarter of these interactions resulted in an aggressive response.  Since the small dog is easier to physically master, the alpha role is frequently employed and the incidence of aggression to familiar people escalated when these methods were used.

What can be done to avoid small dog syndrome in your pet?

Respect and treat them as a dog!  Many actions that an owner would not/could not continue with a large breed past puppyhood, are maintained with small dogs.  Small dogs are often subjected to excessive and unwanted handling, with no respect to how the dog may feel at the time. Behaviours such as:

  • Scooping the small dog up from behind, with no warning that they are being lifted, can contribute to a lack of confidence and heightened reactivity on the approach of a person.
  • Holding the small dog in your arms while forcing them into the belly up position for petting can make them feel quite vulnerable and may elicit an unwanted reaction.
  • Allowing the dog to be petted by others while trapped in the owner’s arms. This prevents them from showing fear or defensive body language, or to remove themselves from the unwanted attention. Their remaining line of defense is to their teeth.

Find suitable socialization opportunities.  This includes safe interaction with different size dogs and novel people under 16 weeks of age. Owners often do not get their small breed dog out early, fearing that it is too fragile. The fact that they continue to look like a young puppy can lead an owner to feel that they don’t need to start training in earnest until they are much older.  Early exposure will build a better understanding of what is acceptable in their world and make a significant difference in the adult behaviour.  This is especially true for breeds that have been shown to possess a heightened inclination to generalized reactivity. We want to build their confidence, so that they feel safe and not on the defensive!

Daily exercise outside is critical!  Although they may not need as much space as a larger breed, it is still crucial to let them learn how to behave in the world.  Exercise also increases the brain’s ability to deal with stress, which is so important for any breed that is prone to the shy end of the boldness spectrum.

Train them as you would a larger breed.  While a small dog misbehaving may not seem as challenging as a Golden Retriever, it can and often does escalate to more forward behaviours as they learn that they can control the actions of those around them.  The more they practice behaviours such as lap or food guarding, the more entrenched it can become, until we arrive at the small dog with an outsized attitude of entitlement! A simple matter of house guidelines for any sized dog, so that they build manners and respect is important. Set meal times, require basic manners before walks, invite them onto the furniture and practice asking them to get off on command.   Just because they are little does not mean they don’t have a high level of intelligence that needs to be directed!

Care around Children!  Small dogs are at particular risk being handled inappropriately by small children, which can escalate their perception that they need to be on guard around them. Parents need to instruct children to allow the pup to come to them, ideally while seated on the floor, precluding the need to pick up the puppy.  This will help to build improve the sense of safety for the pup, reducing anxiety and defensive displays.

Small dogs can accomplish anything and everything a large breed dog can do, but we do need to be respectful of their greater vulnerability due to size. Look at things from their (very low) point of view!

Exercise benefits for Anxious Dogs

Exercise and the high anxiety dog

 Lucinda Glenny MSc Animal Welfare, HBSc Psychology, CPDT-KA

Anxiety is a feeling of unease or fear of occurring events. It can cause panic attacks, which make     the body seize up and activate the peripheral nervous system’s “fight or flight” mode. This causes increased heart rate, sweating, rapid breath, tension in the chest, increased blood pressure, and ultimately fear. When in this state, animals are not able to think or act clearly and cannot process information appropriately.

How does exercise help alleviate these symptoms? There is often an odd sense of happiness that occurs after exercise, which is primarily caused by endorphins. Endorphins act on the same neurological centers as opioids, which improve our tolerance to stress and pain. In addition to endorphins,   the brain stimulates the production of serotonin, dopamine and norepinephrine, all of which play a key role in making us feel better.

Many studies have found the positive correlation of increased exercise for human and animal subjects and  a reduction in outward signs of anxiety.

Exercise stimulates neurogenesis in the hippocampus, the main center for the control of mood, by a chemical called Brain Derived Neurotrophic Factor (BDNF). Studies have shown that the hippocampus in depressed women is 15% smaller than in those without depression. Therefore, by stimulating the growth of the hippocampus, the symptoms of depression and anxiety should, theoretically be diminished.

When people or animals first start to exercise, the brain experiences a rush of stress hormones, called glucocorticoids. Why would that be good for stress levels? In the long run, exercise trains the brains to better deal with stress. In studies, animals who exercise are less anxious in stressful situations, are more likely to find a solution to a problem, such as running a maze, and are less likely to lose track of the goal.

Exercise makes us smarter and improves ability to cope with stress!

Walking three hours a week for only three months generates so many new neurons that you can measure the difference in brain size. That’s because exercise increases the level of neurotrophins, chemicals that promote the creation of new brain cells. Exercising regularly also enhances memory and the ability to learn new tasks, whereas stress impairs neurogenesis and can impede the ability to learn.

Anyone that has been through a divorce or lost a loved one can tell you how hard it is to remember or learn new things during a stressful period. It’s believed that a combination of the reduction in neurogenesis, cell loss and changes in remaining cells can disrupt the thought processes. Of course, this takes time to happen, so usually it’s only prolonged stress that has major effects on the brain. Luckily, regular exercise can combat these negative effects, boost brainpower and reduce stress levels. In reference to anxious dogs, these same factors can aide in leading your dog to remain in a calmer and more confident state.

For most dogs we generally recommend a long walk to help tire them out – but for the HA dog, this can actually increase the problem. Try to find ways to physically tire your dog before walking them – ball tossing in the yard, tag in the house, fetch up carpeted stairs are all ways to use up some of that excess energy. It’s not surprising that the breed types that we see many difficulties with are ones who have a lot of energy.

By tiring your dog prior to subjecting them to the triggers, they will be more able to manage the situations appropriately.

In order to obtain the best results, animals should be exercised vigorously, on a regular basis. Also, combine it with a proper diet and positive encouragement. The most substantial improvements in mental health are made with a combination of exercise, medication and behavioural therapy.

Those mouthy puppies!

All puppies like to explore their environment with their mouths and when playing with other puppies they do this constantly. Unfortunately, when playing with their human companions, this can be painful, as we don’t have the fur to protect us from those sharp teeth and our clothing can seem so very fun to pull on!

When puppies are under 16 weeks of age, they are learning what is called ‘bite inhibition’. This means understanding how to use their mouth in contact with other living things, without biting too hard. This is best taught to them by another puppy, which will respond with a high-pitched squeak when the playmate bites down too hard. The puppy brain is hard wired to understand this sound and lighten the pressure. If they don’t, the other puppy will stop playing with them, teaching them that if they don’t play nicely – they don’t get to play at all. Owners can use these same strategies; squeak when the puppy bites too hard, and leave the area when they won’t stop. One very important element that has to be added in for human/puppy play is redirecting the puppy’s mouth from the skin to a SOFT toy, where they get the same sensation as playing with a puppy. Make the toy more interesting by flopping it around, so that the puppy wants to grab it, not you.

There will be times when the puppy just gets overexcited and can no longer think clearly – they go into what I call the shark stage! This is notable for non-stop grabbing at hands and clothes, possibly vocalizing and being unresponsive to anything you say. There is no point at this stage in trying to discipline, or even interact with the puppy, as they are too aroused to learn anything. Any type of physical intervention, such as grabbing the muzzle, or holding them down on their back, will usually result in a more aggressive response from the puppy. The best thing to do at this point is to either remove your self from the room that the puppy is in, or put them calmly in their crate to settle down. This is NOT meant to be punishment and they can have a busy toy, such as a stuffed Kong in the crate to help settle them down. They need to be quietly in there for at least 10 to 15 minutes and then when releasing them, be sure to be very calm with them so that you don’t get them all excited again.

Take note of when this happens most frequently, as there is usually a pattern. Often if a play session is too long or too exciting, the puppy gets over-stimulated. Be sure to have pause in play, where you work at just gently petting them, so that they learn to quiet nicely. End of day and just before bed are other likely times, as the pup is tired and more likely to act inappropriately – just like a tired baby! Anticipate this and have a good busy toy ready to give them in a quiet place, before they get riled up.

Sensitive Learning Stages in Puppies

An excerpt from a full research study: Effects of Early Social Stimuli on Adult Temperament in Dogs (Canis familiaris)

There have been numerous studies on a variety of species investigating the positive affect of early socialization and exposure to novel stimuli, and their impact on development (Hebb, 2003; Hubrecht, 1995; Fox, 1971).  In dogs, this highly sensitive social learning stage has been found to fall between the ages of 7-14 weeks  (Battaglia, 2009).   Pups that remain in the breeder’s facility during this stage need to be actively socialized with other breeds of dogs and places.   This period also coincides with the age when many pups are moved to their new homes, raising the potential for behavioral issues if not handled appropriately.   Classes and educational materials delivered during this period from the breeder, Veterinarians and professionals can help ease this transition (Gazzano, 2008).

The predisposition to a particular temperament type in dogs is considered to be inborn, (Slabbert, 1999; Svartberg & Bjorn, 2002), which can run the spectrum from a confident and pro-social attitude to one predominated by anxiety and neurosis (Coren, 1999).   Research supports the concept that there is a strong inter-relation of disposition, environment and learning stages that work to produce the mature animal.  In the case of dogs, an anxious temperament may manifest itself in acts of aggression towards people or animals, which increases the risk of surrender.   Working with a young, developing puppy with gentle exposure to many different experiences in the period of 5- 14 weeks has been shown to be an effective and pro-active method to prevent behavioural problems.   Positive early experiences can have a protective effect on the adult animal.   It is not possible to fully recreate this important effect after 16 weeks of age.

Research completed by Fox (2010) suggests that the early learning period is a crucial factor in the development of brain architecture, which provides for proper processing of novel stimuli and a reduction of stress behaviours.  Without this exposure, the dog does not have the opportunity to build sufficient coping mechanisms, which can translate to fear or aggression in the adult animal.  Animals that receive formal socialization classes during this stage have the opportunity to build a wide range of positive associations (Seskel, 1997) and thus are far more prepared to confidently handle real world situations.

Since 2008, the AVSAB has approved of the outside socialization of young pups from as early as 10 days after receiving their first set of shots and going to their new home. The maternal antibodies present and the effect of the first shots provide sufficient protection for such experiences as going out for a walk, or going to puppy socialization classes in accredited facilities.   Research demonstrates that under-socialized animals experience difficulty in accepting novel stimuli with confidence, with potentially long-term effects on their interpretation of common world experiences, such as strangers, bikes, trucks and other dogs (McMillan, Duffy, Serpell, 2011; Battaglia, 2009).

Studies support the concept that through class participation, a reduction of aggression in dogs and increased retention in the home can be achieved (Casey, Loftus, Bolster, Richards & Blackwell, 2014; Duxbury, Jackson, Line & Anderson 2003).  There is a great deal of scientific evidence supporting the idea that social exposure in sensitive stages translates to minimized unwanted behavioural issues, particularly anxiety induced ones.  Introduction of a heightened program of early socialization during the fear onset stage of 7 – 14 weeks has been shown to promote improved interaction skills with both people and other dogs (Duxbury et al (2003).

While formal training classes are generally deemed a positive experience (Duxbury et al, 2003), all classes are not based on the same learning principles, or quality of instruction.  Classes that are overcrowded, or employ aversive techniques can potentially have a highly negative affect on an animal’s perception of social arenas.   Owners need to fully investigate local training facilities to determine their methods in advance.  A well-versed owner can also provide their pet the same level of exposure and positive training methods, while not enrolling in a formal class.

It is so important for breeders to start the exposure process while the pups are still with them, from as early as 3 weeks of age.  Information on gentle exposure should be provided new owners, in order to help with important transition period.  Reducing stress of the move can also be achieved through the use of Adaptil collars in the first month in the new home, and by sending home an item with the familiar scent of the litter.


Dogs on the bed!

What better way to spend quality time with  your dog than to share your bed with them?  Dogs love comfort just as much as humans do and being close to their human is as good as it gets.  There has been significant research done surrounding the concept that sleeping in the bed causes aggression and the general conclusion is that it does not.  Most dogs will continue to be happily part of a family bed and it will not cause any issues.  BUT, while most dogs will not experience any issues, the problem lies in the ones that may have a tendency to what’s referred to as resource guarding.  This tendency often does not show up in the first year of life, but may become more apparent as the dog reaches a state of maturity around 18-24  months of age, when they are more likely to attempt to assert themselves.

Resource guarding is defined as an animal’s effort to prevent access to their highly valued items, including  beds, laps, bones and toys through aggressive displays.   This is the number one cause of aggression towards family members and may be demonstrated through growling, lip lifting, air snaps or actual contact.  The key point here is that sleeping on the bed does not cause the aggressive display, but simply provides one more high value element to protect, and one that will necessarily include contact with a family member.

So if sleeping on the bed doesn’t cause aggression, why be concerned about it?  Many dog owners may not recognize the slow increase in protective behaviour that happens as their dog matures, until it has reached the point of a full challenge.  This challenge may never in fact happen, but if it does the long term impact on the relationship is a negative one.  For this reason, I highly recommend that dogs not be allowed to sleep on a regular basis on the bed for the first year, although inviting them up for a cuddle is great and a good first experience to teach them that this is a privilege to be earned and enjoyed.

Teaching dogs to wait for an invitation onto the bed helps them understand clearly that they should look for direction from their human when accessing high value resources.  It will also be important that the dog is taught a consistent ‘off’ command, so that at any given time they understand that maybe they’ll be on their dog bed tonight.  By practicing the protocol of getting the dog off the bed with no issues, the likelihood that they will feel entitled to protect the space is greatly diminished.

The key take away here is that your dog sleeping on the bed with you is wonderful, but that rules of use need to be introduced early on and followed through on, so that the dog that may just have a tendency to guard doesn’t feel that it is even remotely an issue in this situation.